Thursday, September 13, 2007

A check of reality - my visit to Muddapuram


On Sunday, September 9th, I went to Muddapuram along with Dr. Prakash Vinjamuri of Life HRG as they started their "Village by Village" program. This is my view point of the situation.

Ok, I admit, I haven't been much of a village boy or been in villages much to realize what the life used to be. So when Dr. Prakash invited me for this trip, I accepted it, even though I was overwhelmed with last minute issues on my recent trip. I also wanted to take a few pictures of Indian Village lifestyle to post them on Flickr (my recent obsession). But what I experienced was something out of the ordinary.

On Sunday, September 9th, Dr. Prakash showed up at 6:15 a.m. at our house as he promised. I had my alarm set for 5:45 a.m., but since I didn't get to bed till 2 a.m., it didn't work. So, I had to do my quick 15 minute getting ready routine, during which I dropped my camera (yes, the same one I used here, I have to send it for repair now). Sorry Dr. Prakash, for being late, that is not my style to make people wait. Anyway, We left around 6:35, along with his wife Dr. Kameswari, a gynacologist. We stopped near LB Nagar, Hyderabad to pickup another social worker, Madhavi, who is from the village Muddapuram it seems. It was her request to Dr. Prakash, that made this village the first choice for the new program. She seemed quite energetic and enthusisastic, and started preparing us for the conditions that we may face once we get there. After a brief break for coffee and gas we continued on this 90 kilometer trip. Half way through, there was a discussion that one of the bridges connecting the village to the route we are taking collapsed recently and we may have to take a detour. We stopped and asked one of the traffic cops we found in a town, and he very confidently said "yes traffic is going through", so without hesitation, we reached the place where the bridge collapsed. Needless to say, it was a dead-end. We found out that we needed to take a detour of about 10 kms.

I am not complaining, but the condition of the detour road was terrible. With roads barely wide enough for one bus, pot holes big enough to bring you to complete halt to cross, the detour took a lot longer than expected. The lack of infrastructure support to village outside of the mainstream cities is quite obvious.

We reached Muddapuram, about an hour late and when we entered the village, there was only one man at the Community Hall, where we supposed to meet with the villagers. As we stopped at Ms. Madhavi's in-laws place in the middle of the village, you can see others started to notice our arrival and starting to gather around. The old man in this picture made his way also, and immediately started talking to Dr. Prakash about his condition. I guess, all villagers are looking forward to medical consultation rather than listening to what they have to offer to help bring the village up to a new level. Patiently both doctors started talking to the people and after a brief breakfast break and a kid announcing our arrival with a "dappu" (a open drum that makes enough noise to get your attention), the group grew to may be 30-40 people.

I took a few pictures of the elder and a couple of girls playing in the street, but somehow, my creative desire to take pictures got overwhelmed by the experience I started to feel with the gathering. I wanted to feel comfortable and come back to take pictures, instead of being selfish and do the pictures I wanted.

There was a glaring lack of young and capable men. The crowd was predominantly older people and almost everyone seem to have a health issue. The so-called medical help they are receiving is a retired compounder (nurse) that comes by and dispenses pain killers and performs injections. So they are all used to drugs that will make them feel instant relief, even though they may not cure the actual illness. That is what they were all expecting from the doctors too. One of the older women even asked in the open - "Are you going to give us any drugs or is this all just show and tell?" - that closed the loop on what Dr. Prakash was trying to convey, but he continued to enquire others, and finally a couple of them saw what he is trying to do and started going over the background of the village and its facilities.

Everybody is now drinking so called filtered water, which seems to come in big containers and as reported by one of the villagers tastes different in each village. Not sure what the "filtering" process is, it seems like a good business around the villages. The effects of Musi (the dirty water river from Hyderabad) seem to be everywhere.

While I was in India, I was working on the our new Online venture PlaygroundOnline. When I visited the village, I realized how we are catering to only the few people in the cities, and how many of the villages may never even hear of us. That is a harsh reality, but it is reality still. Cell phones and TVs invaded most of the villages, but that is where it seems to have stuck. Education is almost on the verge of collapse, with everyone looking to private schools and travelling to nearby towns. Once they finish education, the youth are leaving for cities and leaving the old and aged people to their own devices. People that should have retired or be spending time taking care of their health, are working in the fields and worrying about their future and managing marginal health.

Is giving drugs, throwing money and facilities at villages the right solution? I don't think so. I like the concept Life HRG is taking up, which is to start educating on fundamental changes that can improve the health and lifestyle of villages. Making them utilize the resources they have and make changes to their lifestyle for the longterm well being will be a great accomplishment. It may take time to see the results, but it has to be attempted. In the modern era of instant gratification, people may not be patient enough to take this on instantaneously. So it is going to take tenacity and persistence to make this work and this is the path Dr. Prakash and Life HRG seems to have taken.

I plan on visiting this village on every trip to India and see how it progresses over time with the intiatives being taken up. I wish Dr. Prakash and Life HRG best of luck and do whatever I can do to contibute to its success. I applaude the support Dr. Kameswari is providing in this project to her husband and his vision.

I wish there are more people like Madhavi that take intiative to make their village better instead of preaching them to leave for town. After all, the lifeblood of India is still in its villages and I hope to see it continue to exist and get better!

Countries I visited So far

Air Travel has put the world at our finger tips. While growing up, I never even dreamed of visiting so many places. Here are the list of countries I have been to so far (first year I was there). These are countries where I visited some place (not just transited through).

India (Born in 1968 - lived till 1990, visit too often to list years)
USA (1991-Current)
Mexico (1994, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007)
Singapore(1995, 1997, 2000, 2001)
Malaysia (1992, 1997)
Japan (1997)
China (1997)
Taiwan (1997)
England (2007)
Australia (2007)
France (2007)

Countries passed through as Transit Passenger
Hong Kong
Macau
Switzerland
Germany
Thailand

Monday, June 4, 2007

Ganesha - the god of choice in Cars in India

Now, 90% of the cars I have been in have the tiny idol of Ganesha on thier dash board.

This one had special fake diamonds embedded along the trunk - not the usual one.

Taken inside of the car I did the 4 hr city tour on May 28th, 2007 - Read the "24 Hrs in Mumbai" for more details on this trip.

24 Hrs in Mumbai (Bombay) -

This story will make more sense if you read the previous blog "My First Kingfisher Flight Experience"

May 27th, 2007 Midnight - Now that I finally realized that I missed my International flight - I have to start thinking what to do now. I missed many flights, had weather delays, but never had an International flight miss before. I guess there is first time for everything.

Based on Deta guy's advice, I found the arrival lounge (it a maize) and found Kingfisher counter. Explained the guy my situation - that because of the delay from Kingfisher flight, I missed my flight to New York. He was apologetic and wanted me to check for alternatives - I told him I already did - I have no choice except to figure how to spend 24 hrs - I asked him if there is a fligh to Hyderabad soon - I thought I can go back to HYD, spend the day and come back next day early enough to avoid the episode I had before. But the first flight to HYD is not till morning - so I figured not to waste time going back to hyderabad and spend time here.

The Kingfisher guy wanted to check with Delta about the options - so I said go ahead - so I waited in the lounge playing "golf" on my cell phone - it took about 15-20 minutes for him to come back - then he started making calls - I looked at him across the hall - and he signalled that he is still working on something so - I stayed put.

12:45 p.m. - he finally waved me in - and told me that since I didn't leave "3 hours" between my connections - I didn't qualify for any Kingfisher compensation plans - and sorry - well I wasted 45 minutes for nothing - but at this point - I have to figure out how to waste 24 hrs - so no big deal.

Found the hotel reservation counter - there two guys nothing to do, chit chatting - as soon as I walke over there, the sales person hat is on and they tried to sell me the best hotels aroud - I told them my budget is around $200 and I have to spend till late tomorrow - after some disucussions, he figured out how to avoid 2 days charge at the hotel - pretty smart! He put in late check out 4 p.m. and told me to leave the bags at the lobby - go around and collect bags later and come back to the airport - seeme like a plan. He booked me into Royal Archid - a supposedly "eco friendly" hotel - I wanted to see what that is all about. After he called the hotel - he said - I saved you a full day and got you late check out - so if you are happy with my work, anything you give me is appreciated (I guess a hint for a tip). I had to change some $$ into Rupees, since this was unscheduled halt. I got some money (at a bizzarre 39.50 rupees per $ - used to be 44.50) - and gave hime 200 ($4.50) - immediately he had some one come out and help me with the bags - from this point onwards - I realized - I don't have to do much - if I keep slippling 100 here and 100 there. So I decided to have a "good" experience.

1:15 a.m. - the complimentary car from hotel showed up - and took me to the hotel - it was only 5 minutes ride and I didn't have to worry about the traffic game that late in the night. The hote looked decent - definitely not Leela or other 5 star hotels around (they quoted $450 for Leela - whew!) - There was a bell boy even that late - so pretty much the same treatment during check-in, getting to the room. The new guy at the front desk seems to be having trouble charging my credit card - he called on the intercom to the duty manager - who was sitting a few feet away - I thought yelling out to him would have been easier :)

1:45 a.m. - finally settled into room - got some drinks from room service - my sister called to make sure I am finally reached some place. I told her - all is ok, and decided watch TV late - so I can get a headstart on my jetlag. I think I lasted till 3 a.m. or so - before falling asleep!

9:45 a.m. - where am I? This always happens - the room had no outside window - the window is looking over the pool which is covered - so it looked like early morning - but it is already getting to 10 a.m. - so decided to get up. I had no slippers, so had to get into dress shorts and shoes - so I decided to get out of the room and see what lies ahead.

10:00 a.m. - walked outside of the hotel just to see how it feels - it is humid summary day in Bombay - buzzing city - I haven't been into the city for almost 16 1/2 years now. When I left India for the US back in December 1990 I flew out of Bombay, since then I did a couple of connections, but never got outside. I heard a lot of stories, so decided to make a trip outside. The travel desk guy said there are 4 and 8 hr car services to go into City - but whichever I decide to do, going into main city (downtown) is not advisable - you may get struck in traffic - I told him I will take 4 hr option at 3 p.m.

10:20 a.m. - found the so called business center with one computer and 2 people at the help desk. Asked for Internet usage - 150 per hour (almost $4) - little steep - so I got on the computer - and the speed at which the Internet is opening - I could have spend the rest of the day just checking my emails, and a few websites - took me 1 hr to check Delta site for seats, send 2 emails about my delay and get some local info. So I decided that I will skip the browsing. I was able to talk to all my friends (most of them were surprised to hear from me) while waiting for the browser to bring up pages. So at least got more things done.

Now can this get any boring? Well it could have - so I will skip on some mundane stuff - had a coffee, had buffet lunch - I was hungry and ate 4 or 5 different dishes - they all tasted good - but boy did I pay for it rest of the day - heartburn city! - I guess I am not used to that much spice any more.

3 p.m. - checked out ofthe room - left my bags with the Bell Boy and got into my 4 hr ride into Mumbai - the taxi guy (I think he said Rajan) wanted to know what I would like to do. I have him an outline - that not too much, just to experience the life of Mumbai, take a few pictures, etc. He wanted to know if I want to shop - I said not really. So we set out - and 5 minutes into it, his cell phone rings he pulls over talks really upset with the other guy - back on the road - 5 minutes another call - anoher 5 minutes - after the 3rd stop - he started to explain how this guy he took out last night spent all his money, tried to use South African dollars, borrowed money from him and now can't remeber and in turn blaming him for over charging. I guess he was owed 750 and it is a lot of money for him - I decided to give him some slack for the phone calls.

30 minutes into the trip - I realized that I am not really into site seeting - we went through new high tech buildings, high ways, etc. During one of the traffic stops I noticed the Transvestites at the road side swarming cars/taxis and demanding money. I don't know if you heard about them before or not - Mumbai is very famous for them and you don't have may options - I saw almost everyone doling out money - I tried to get a better picture, but decided not to roll down any windows. Not sure what they would do if they saw may camera and others in the backseat.

I also noticed the nice idol of Ganesha in the car I was in - read my post "Ganesha - the god of choice in Cars in India".

The drive made me stop and go inside the St. Mary's church - I figured he needed a break - so I got out and took a few pictures and went inside the church. I never been inside a church in India before. View this picture in Flickr - It has the feel of an Indian temple with Mother Mary, cross and other pictures inside.

Now, we are at the beach walk near the church. I decided to walk for a few minutes and the driver said he will wait at the end of the street. Now, this has to be one of the dirtiest beach walks I have seen - I am not complaining about the dirtiness - but the smell is horrible, there are people washing clothes in the water pools - but surprisingly there are quite a few young couples sitting on the rocks some as far as possible from the shore. This about 4 p.m. - broad day light - and mosf of them are engaged in kissing, hugging, etc. When I grew up in India - this kind of thing would be unheard of - but times have changed and we are in Mumbai, one of the most advanced cities in India - so it definitely a new experience for me - this continued later on in other places I visited and stopped at. Now I feel Old!!!

We stopped at a Shopping complex (again just to kill time - ended up buying some gifts), Coffee Shop Barista.

Finally we decided to go to Juhu Beach and call it a day - it is around 6 p.m. now - the beach was pretty crowded - I was taking some picures and here is this 8 year old guy with a 2-3 year old girl in his arms (probably sister) and begging. No matter how anyone feels about these beggers I felt for him - to be in that situation supporting his sister and making begging his profession - so I gave him the lowest denomination of currency I have left - 10 Rs (25 cents). Usually people donate 1 or 2 rupee coins. So first he was surprised - then smiled and stuck a pose for my camera - I chose not to publish it for personal reasons. Now I noticed other little beggers getting tips from this kid that I gave 10 Rs. to and within few minutes I had 2 or 3 more around me - insisting that I give money- I gave a couple of more 10 Rs. and realized if I don't leave now, I will be literally mugged by these little guys. So I got back to the car and decided to leave Juhu. I remember visiting Juhu Beach in 1988 - recently they removed all food stalls from the beach it seems due to health reasons - now it looks a lot different.

6:45 p.m. - back at the hotel - decided to have a light dinner - now getting nervous again about the 16 hr flight ahead - I got a windows seat - so I decided to get to the airport - a little earlier today and try my luck there.

8:00 p.m. - after a couple of drinks and nice Tikka dish - I decided to end my "hanging around" hotel and head to the airport. The bell boy loaded all my bags into the complimentary car again - and I gave hime Rs. 100 - he seemed happy. another Rs. 100 for the driver - and now I am down to my last few Indian rupees again.

8:45 p.m. - now I am at the airport - almost 3 1/2 hrs before the flight - and slowly pushed around to get to Delta - no hurry.

9:05 p.m. - I am checked in - got 40G - an aisle seat - didn't want to get stuck in the window. Now 3+ hrs to spend in Mumbai airport - Called family talked to them, walked around and decided to get into the Immigration area (once you pass it can't come out again) - around 9:40 p.m.

10:00 p.m. - now outside gate 8 - where the flight is supposed to leave from - already a few fellow delta passengers around - they have nice spread out chairs - so lounged into one and decided to play "golf" on my cell phone again - how long can you do that? 30 mins - that is the max I was able to do so. An airport employee walked by and wanted to know if I can "bluetooth" that game to him - I had to explain him that his Nokia is not compatible - he insisted his phone is top of the line :)

10:45 p.m. - they decided to start security screening people and put them in the final holding area - why not, I am able to pass 20+ hrs - just another 1 1/2 hrs - no big deal - found a seat near the boarding door - and sat down and thought I can read one of the books - hardly finished 2 pages - a lot of drama started unfolding around... so

In my next post - the "Delta 017 Experience" - I will write about what I perceive as the toughest flight I have done so far (I probably did 300-400 flights in the last 15years) -

Saturday, June 2, 2007

My First Kingfisher flight experience

For the firsttime, i decided to take the Kingfisher flight from Hyderabad to Mumbai (for me it will be always Bombay) on May 27th, 2007 - evening - The flight is IT 166 - scheduled at HYD at 9:20 p.m. - reach Bombay at 10:35 p.m.

My flight from Bombay to JFK is Delta 017 at 12:20 a.m. - I figured 1:45 minutes is good enough window to go between terminals. You will see how it was a BIG mistake later on...

I arrived at the HYD airport with family around 8:25 p.m. - my niece said they were announcing that the flight is delayed by 10 minutes - dang 1:35 minutes gap - now I am cutting close for my connection. So nervously I decided to check-in - there is a spice jet flight at 10 p.m. if Kingfisher gets delayed further, I assured myself. I got through the baggage screening and Kingfisher has people to help with baggage - nice - even for Economy travel. Got to the counter, there were 2 agents working one sitting at a counter looking "extremely" busy with a radio.

I was standing in one line and the guy infront me had 5 tickets in hand and other 4 in his party are waiting outside of the line - the other counter became free and the agent called me - so I was checking in - hoping he will ask me for an ID - since I bought an e-ticket - nope - he says Mr. Chavali - going to Mumbai - seat 15 A, blah, blah - the usual stuff. In the mean time the guy next to me with 5 tickets checked in all 5 of them, without anybody coming to the counter - hmm..is this really safe? I wondered, but whom am I to question right? I asked my agent if the flight is late and he said - no "almost on time" - actually it is "on time" - he assured - alright - less pressure...

I came outside the security gate - spent some more time with my family, took some pictures, and staring to think about what lies ahead for me - the change of terminals in Bombay, the 16 hr flight to JFK - the 1st class upgrade from JFK to Phoenix (which almost made me feel that everything is going to be alright). It was hot outside, so around 8:55 p.m. - I said goodbyes to family and went inside. The security check was relatively quiet - went upstairs to the gate and there are a lot of people waiting for flights and some already fighting to get through the gate - I found out that was for another Jet Airways flight. I started to make some calls waiting for our turn to "push each other" throug security to board. 2 or 3 cute girsl clad in red-uniforms now started to hang around the gate all looking concerned and busy with radios (hot hot trend). People started to get nervous around 9:15 p.m. and started to ask the girls about boarding - the same answer "boarding in a few minutes sir" - 9:20 p.m. - they open the gates - alright at least we may still take off around 9:30-9:35 I told myself. Got through the door and rushed to the plane - wow - brand new plane - with nice seats and monitors in each seat with Satellit TV - only seen them before in Song flights in US.

Seat 15 A - Window - settled in - can't believe it is going to be a full flight. Oh, here is the tall white bearded gentle man I noticed before - he is 15 B - whew! smoker - must have puffed one right before getting inside the airport - no big deal just 1 hr flight. Boarding is done - 9:35 p.m. - let's get on with it!!!!

9:40 p.m. (now 1 hr 25 mins for my connection if we take off now and land at 10:55) - captain announces we are ready - started push back - as long as I have more than 1 hr time, I should be fine. Started to watch TV to get my mind off the pressure. The air hostesses are all young cute, have mini skirts - my friend is right - Vijay Mallaya, the CEO knows how to make this a glamorous airline. All passengers are amused and behaving relatively well.

9:50 p.m. - still waiting to enter run way - what's the problem - oh, In HYD only one runway - some flight is inbound - finally 9:55 p.m. - Indigo flight lands and we get on to the runway - finally take off - 10 p.m. - do I have 1 hr and 5 min now? Still close - I will make it....

Airhostesses give out goodie bags - a pen, candi, ear phones, in a cute red pouch - good marketing. I picked up one - my white beard neighbor didn't want one - wow, somebody saying no to free stuff? In India? Cool!

Food service - man, these airlines rush to serve food in the short 1 hr flights - I am still full from my evening meal - said no - WHAT? the air hostess is confused - no food? coffee? tea? she was determined to serve me with something - I said no please and she moved on.

10:30 p.m. The inflight tracking on the monitor shows - we are 150 km to Mumbai about 18 mins to go. if we land at 10:50 - I get my bags, I should still be ok -

10:45 p.m. - wait, we are flying by the airport - what's up? Air Traffic Control - circling airport - shoot - didn't expect this one - we go 25 km away from airport and turn around again -finally after many turns we land - 11 p.m. - tick tack! tick tack!

11:05 p.m. - we are still taxiing - there are so many flights in Mumbai, they taxi a long way - almost in between domestic and international terminal - I rush down the steps - get on to the 1st bus that is taking us to the terminal -

11:15 p.m. - inside the terminal - it is a zoo - there are 4 flights that arrived in the last 1o mins - everybody is waiting for bags - 20 people are waiting for the shuttle to International terminal - ok, now I am starting to doubt my chances -

11:30 p.m. - still waiting for bags - talked to a Kingfisher guy and asked him about my chances of getting bags in the next few minutes - he inspects my baggage claim and looks over the Delta timing - he said he will have his colleagues contact Delta and let them know that there is a passenger that is late - may be they will hold the flight me (like Swiss did in 1997 - but then I was travelling in business class).

11:35 p.m. - here are my bags - I sprinted to the International shuttle waiting area - dang so many people - can I get on the next shuttle? - I ask the guys that are managing the shuttle and show them my itinerary - he stretched his lower lip out questioning my chance - the next shuttle is not until 11:50 he said - that leaves me less than 30 mins - but International flights are usually delayed in India - so I crossed my fingers.

11:40 p.m. - the shuttle arrives - I cut infront of some waiting people - now being rude didn't cross my mind - I am getting desparate - I told the guy loading the bags my tight connection - he loads them in front - so he can get to them quickly.

11:50 p.m. - the shuttle starts - can this guy go any faster - why is he driving without lights - oh - I see we are going across runways - and they must have rules against lights - get out of the way you damn tractor! - so many emotions...

Midnight - we arrived at the International terminal - the baggage guy gets a cart for me - and gets my bags out first and stretches his hand (he wants a tip) - slipped him 100 Rs. ($2.50) and run inside the terminal. The security guy looks at my itinerary a little confused and lets me in. I tried to find the Delta check in - asked a couple of guys - they all said - "run they may close soon" (that means they may still be open) - finally found Delta - get to the counter - the guy says

"WE ARE CLOSED"!! why are so late?
If he had a choice he probably would have spanked me for being late.

So I now face the inevitable - missed my flight - get to their back office and the guy says I will confirm you for tomorrow - I asked him if there are any other options - like Northwest, British Airways, he says - Northwest already closed and they don't have a deal with British - so all he can do is confirm for next day - no choice - ok - what's next? He said go to Kingfisher counter - asked them to compensate you for being late and missing flight -

TO BE continued in my next blog - "24 Hrs in Mumbai -"

Why this blog?

I travelled 10 different countries and a lot of states in US. I have some interesting stories and some frustrating experiences. I always wanted to see if others have same kind of stories and if want to share.

My goal is eventually create a Air Travel Portal on the URL I have www.allaboutairtravel.com - one of these days when I find more time... :)

I also post photos I have taken at various places on flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/pchavali/